Word to the Wise | Dr. Nicole Dezrea Jenkins

by Anna De Cheke Qualls

Dr. Nicole Dezrea Jenkins, Assistant Professor of Sociology and Criminology at Howard University, has been selected as part of the inaugural cohort of the Faculty of Arts and Sciences Dean's Fellowship at Harvard University for 2024-2025. As a fellow, Jenkins is spending this academic year at Harvard, focusing on completing her forthcoming book, Twisted Entanglements: Navigating the Paradox of Sisterhood and Systems of Power in Black Beauty Spaces, under contract with Princeton University Press. The book draws from two years of ethnographic research conducted in a Las Vegas African hair braiding salon and delves into the complexities of identity-making and Black spaces among Black women in the U.S.

In addition to her book, Jenkins continues to collect data for her international research project, Global Crowns: Emotions Surrounding Natural Hair of Black Women around the Globe. This project, which examines the experiences of Black women facing natural hair discrimination worldwide, recently gained attention for its innovative use of AI in data collection and analysis. The research has expanded to new locations, including Havana, Brazil, and Burundi, with more destinations planned for 2025. Jenkins is collaborating with faculty from Sorbonne Nouvelle University in Paris, France, and the University of Burundi to enhance the scope of this important work.

Jenkins will also be featured on an upcoming radio show, Getting To The Roots: Our Hair Has A Story, where she will discuss critical issues such as Black hair appropriation, American beauty standards, and race-based hair discrimination. She will be presenting updates from the Global Crowns project at international conferences, including seminars in Paris, Brazil, Morocco, Burundi, and the International Sociological Association conference. 

The Sway sat down with Jenkins to learn more about her journey and to gain insights into her work.

The Sway (TS): Give us a brief bio: where you grew up, attended school(s), and how you ended up at Howard.

Nicole Dezrea Jenkins (NDJ): I grew up in Ridgecrest, a small desert town in Southern California known for its military Navy base. I lived there until I was 20, attending community college before deciding to join the U.S. Air Force to take advantage of the educational benefits it offered. I served as Security Forces (military police) at Nellis Air Force Base in Las Vegas, Nevada, and completed a tour in Iraq. After six years of service, I earned an Associate’s Degree in Criminal Justice from the Community College of the Air Force. By the end of my enlistment, I had sustained several service-related injuries, including hearing loss, and had just become a mother. These experiences, combined with my desire to achieve more academically, motivated me to pursue education full-time. I enrolled at the University of Nevada, Las Vegas (UNLV) while balancing motherhood and still being part of a military family. My now ex-husband's acceptance into Howard University’s Dental School brought our family to Washington, D.C. Around the same time, I had just completed my PhD during the COVID-19 pandemic in 2020 and was exploring job opportunities in the area, making Howard a natural fit for my career.

TS: What was your PhD focused on?

NDJ: My PhD is in Sociology, a field dedicated to studying how people interact with each other and society. My concentration areas in grad school were Sociology of Race and Urban Sociology. My research centers on the experiences of Black women specifically in Black spaces. Currently, my specific focus is on the complex dynamics of identity formation within Black beauty spaces, particularly around natural hair.

TS: It seems like a lot of things are happening for you right now—multiple opportunities like a book and research projects. How did you make these happen?

NDJ: From the start of graduate school, I knew I wanted to be an ethnographer, a researcher who immerses themselves in a community to gather data and understand it through theory. My research on natural hair stemmed from my own experiences and curiosity about how other Black women navigated the world with their natural hair. I was determined not just to write a dissertation but to write a book. With the guidance of my mentor, Dr. Ranita Ray, I worked towards that goal. She always referred to my dissertation as a book, which was incredibly motivating. After graduating (virtually, due to COVID), I began drafting my book proposal. I organized panels with scholars who had turned their dissertations into books, which provided invaluable insight into the process. I applied for the Princeton University Press grant, which supports scholars in the developmental phase of their book projects. That led to my book contract with Princeton. At the same time, I was conceptualizing my next research project, Global Crowns, to explore Black women’s natural hair narratives globally. I also launched a study called Mothers of the Mecca, exploring the experiences of student-parents at Howard. These projects have been fueled by my passion for the work, although managing them simultaneously has been a challenge.

TS: How are you managing all those projects at once? What advice would you give?

NDJ: It’s definitely a balancing act, but I give myself grace when things don’t go as planned—I actually plan for those days! Right now, I’m on a Fellowship at Harvard University for the 2024-2025 academic year, which allows me to focus exclusively on writing and research without the demands of teaching. I’ve created a dedicated writing schedule, spending 90 minutes each day working on my book and other ongoing projects. I use the Pomodoro method for time management. When it comes to my research, I plan my travel around conferences so I can collect data while presenting my work. I also have a fantastic team of student researchers and faculty collaborators from around the world who support the project.

TS: Can you tell us more about the international project? Who are your collaborators, and how did you meet them?

NDJ: My project, Global Crowns, focuses on collecting narratives from Black women around the world about their experiences with natural hair. Initially, it began as an online survey but expanded to in-person data collection after receiving funding from Harvard University. This year, I’ll be traveling to Havana, Cuba, Paris, France, Brazil, and Burundi. My collaborators are sociologists I met at conferences. I met my first collaborator, Dr. Christella Kwizera from the University of Burundi, at a virtual Natural Hair Conference. She reached out after my presentation, and we’ve been working together since. I met my second collaborator, Dr. Dimitra Lorochelle from Sorbonne Nouvelle University, at an international conference in Australia. Through these connections, I’ve also been able to work with student researchers, including Kaleb McClendon, an undergraduate student from Oregon University, and Ali Mumback, a Masters student from the Department of Sociology and Criminology at Howard University. Our AI specialist, Bunnarith Bao, has been instrumental in integrating AI into the project. This team came together organically through shared interests and visibility of the work.

TS: How are you all using AI, and how has it worked to your advantage?

NDJ: AI is a powerful tool when used correctly, and it has significantly streamlined my research process. I use AI for note-taking, drafting reports, and organizing research plans. Additionally, I rely on a platform called DataForGood, which securely centralizes my research data and allows me to use AI to navigate it. AI assists with language translation, transcription, and data analysis by identifying themes within the research. It has also been useful in generating images, such as those for my recruitment flyers. AI has allowed me to manage large datasets efficiently and focus on more critical aspects of the research process. This is an extremely innovative research project and it use of Ai technology has gained international attention. It was featured in Nature Magazine earlier this year as one of the 15 inside feature covers from Howard University.

TS: Can you tell us more about the Las Vegas salon? How did it become the focus of your research?

NDJ: The Las Vegas salon holds a special place in my heart. I spent two years conducting ethnographic research there and built close relationships with many of the women I met. I even became part of the staff, working as a receptionist and helping with appointments. I would consult clients on the cost of specific styles, and how long they may take, and show countless photos to braiders from customers seeking trending styles. I chose that particular salon after facing several rejections from other salons. I had been treated pretty badly in my pursuit of a research location. I just happened to see the salon in a shopping center I was visiting and decided to give it a try. The owner’s enthusiasm about my project reignited my excitement, and I knew I had found the right place. My research in the salon began at a time when the natural hair movement was gaining momentum, and I wanted to capture the experiences of women navigating their identity through natural hair.

TS: Can you provide insights into the book publication process? What challenges and opportunities can you share with graduate students?

NDJ: If you know you want to write a book, commit to it, and tell people you’re writing one—it’s essential to believe in your goal. Start early by organizing your thesis or dissertation in a way that can transition into a book. Let your advisors and mentors know about your intention from the beginning so they can guide you. Seek out advice from others who have published books and study press guidelines for manuscript submissions. It’s also helpful to read books that inspire you and take notes on sections you admire. If possible, secure editing or writing support, whether through grants or negotiated funding in your job offers. Publishing a book is a challenging process, but the key is preparation and persistence.

TS: Anything else you’d like to share? Hopes for the future?

NDJ: I love being part of the Howard University community, and I look forward to returning in Fall 2025. My future goals include completing my second book from the data I’m currently collecting. Beyond my career at Howard, I have personal goals centered on my family, happiness, and well-being. I trust that everything will happen in its own time, and I’ll continue to follow where life leads me. God bless and take good care.